Guests began arriving after dinner. The ladies dressed in light, pastel color sarees, the men in formal black sherwanis or white kurta pant outfits, with vests. An air of anticipation hung over the house.
As they arrived the guests were escorted to a large hall where durries covered with white sheets were spread out from wall to wall. Large cushions and ‘gau takye’ (oblong pillows) were set against the walls so guests could sit comfortably on the floor. On one side a red rug was placed over the white sheets for the qawwals (singers). It was to be a night like no other.
There was a noticeable absence of children except for those of the hosts. This was unusual because children were an integral part of all our family gatherings.
My parents had long wanted to host a private Qawwali Night for relatives and friends. Our house in Himayatnagar did not have a room large enough for big gatherings but my uncle who lived close by did. He lived in one of those older homes that had a large hall with several doors leading on to verandas on both sides. We could easily accommodate 80-100 guests.
My uncle and aunt were a very loving and gracious couple. And now they readily offered their home for the event. My father’s enthusiasm and energy were infectious. For weeks he held ‘mini’ family conferences to discuss the arrangements. “Let’s have a conference” Papa would say, and all of us, children and grownups would gather on the veranda. A popular qawwal in Hyderabad at the time was invited to perform. His name was either Aziz Qawwal or Fareed Qawwal.
The word qawwali is derived from the Arabic word ‘qaul’ which means ‘saying’ or ‘speech’. The usage of poetry and music to connect with the divine began way back in the 13th century. Devotional Sufi poetry by Amir Khusro and such poets as Jalaluddin Rumi (Rumi) and Hafez is considered to be the source of most qawwalis. Sufi devotional music is still played in Sufi shrines in India and Pakistan.
A pair of tablas (hand drums)
A typical Qawwali ensemble consists of one or two lead vocalists, a chorus of hand clapping qawwals, who sing to the accompaniment of ‘dholak’ and ‘tabla’, (hand drums) and a ‘harmonium’. A harmonium is a hand-pumped instrument with a keyboard that can be played sitting on the floor. The clapping of hands after each verse creates a rhythm that is captivating.
Our guests settled down in the hall as the qawwals began their first presentation.
My mother and aunts had planned the menu. Chai and refreshments would be served throughout the night. Hundreds of cups of chai were made that night along with samosas, pakoras, lauz, and jalebi!
Trays of chai were quietly passed around in the hall. Sometimes the guests went to the adjoining dining room to help themselves. Men sat on one side of the room and women on the other. Children of course stayed in the inner veranda. I remember being wide awake throughout the night. My cousins and I went to the dining room and helped ourselves to samosas and jalebis as often as we wanted. We had been told we could move around as long as we did not make noise, so we were very quiet.
As the night progressed the music became more powerful and the impact on the audience was visible. While the men responded to an inspiring verse with a loud “wah wah” the women were less audible. Some listened quietly, absorbing the words or nodding in appreciation.
A Harmonium
Guests sent their requests to the qawwals via written notes. If a rendition was particularly moving or a favorite of theirs, they would send an envelope with money to the qawwals in appreciation. Popular qawwals often receive more than their arranged fee from an appreciating audience.
The recitation of powerfully worded poetry in the form of songs, accompanied by music creates a form of divine ecstasy in the listener. Some people are so moved that they get into a trance or ‘haal’, as they call it in Urdu. As a child, I had heard so much about this phenomenon but I was disappointed it did not occur at our event.
A Qawwali recital. Photo courtesy: thenews.com.pk
The poetry and music ended just before the break of dawn. I had never stayed up the whole night listening to music and it felt surreal. I remember walking back home with my uncle and aunt as the first light of dawn appeared in the sky. My cousins and I immediately headed for our beds. My parents stayed back after the recital to make sure my uncle’s house was put back in order.
Qawwali music received international recognition through the music of Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, Aziz Mian, and the Sabri Brothers of Pakistan. In India the Warsi Brothers have dominated this genre for decades, beginning with their grandfather, then their father. Traditionally qawwals are male singers, however, Shakeela Bano Bhopali was the first woman qawwal of India. She is remembered for her flamboyant and uninhibited style of singing that kept her audience captivated.
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